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C L I N I C A L

SKINCARE ACIDS aestheticmed.co.uk

BHAS is also a hydrating antioxidant ingredient with soothing
While AHAs are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble. This properties, which makes it good to use alongside retinol –
means they can penetrate the sebaceous follicles, making as found in AlumierMD Retinol –as it gently exfoliates to
them a better choice for patients with oily skin allow the retinol to penetrate while soothing skin
and comedones. BHAs are exfoliants and are at the same time.
effective at reducing the appearance of
fine lines and wrinkles, improving overall HYALURONIC ACID
skin texture without the irritation often “It is up to us as HA is a complex sugar molecule that
associated with AHAs. professionals to instil in occurs naturally in the body. It is
Derived from aspirin, salicylic acid renowned for its ability to hold 1000
is the most common BHA. It has both patients proper guidance times its own weight in water. HA has
anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory when using active a large molecule and hydrates the skin
benefits to the skin. 2% is recommended ingredients” by drawing moisture to the surface.
for targeting acne, while 0.25% More of a support ingredient rather than
helps control the oil and inflammation anti-ageing, it does not have the ability
associated with ageing. Mixing AHAs to stimulate the body’s own HA or collagen
and BHAs in a skincare routine should be production. It works well alongside other acids
approached with caution, but since everyone’s to help in the anti-ageing process because of its
skin is different, the combination could be safe and even incredible ability to hydrate and plump the skin.
beneficial for some, like those with particularly oily skin, for
example. This is one of the reasons why it is so important RETINOIC ACID
that patients come to skin professionals for guidance Retinoic acid is a morphogen derived from retinol (vitamin
before embarking on any new regime or introducing a new A) that plays an important role in maintaining skin health. It
product into their routine. is known as the gold-standard skincare ingredient because
it has so many functions that help the skin. It is capable of
reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen,
it treats pigmentation and is an antioxidant capable of
protecting the skin from UV-induced free-radical damage.
Retinoic acids combined with other acids such as L-Ascorbic
is one of the best combinations for an anti-ageing skincare
routine. The use of L-ascorbic in the morning and retinol at
night makes a winning combination in the fight against signs
of ageing.
L-ASCORBIC ACID
The most bio-available form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic is
found in skincare from 5-15%. It helps the skin in a variety
of metabolic ways, including helping hyperpigmentation,
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and signs of
ageing. It is involved in the production of collagen and
protects the skin from oxidative stress by fighting
free radicals. The combination of vitamins A (retinol), C
and E are vital in skincare and will lead to healthy skin.
PHAS For clients who are at risk of damaging their skin due
Polyhydroxy acids are naturally-occurring compounds to acid use, gentler acids are ideal to promote skin cell
that have efficacy levels similar to AHAs but are larger renewal without the harmful side effects. Less aggressive,
molecules and therefore less sensitising. Popular PHAs time-released products, such as AlumierMD Acne
include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, which Balancing Serum, which contains 2% encapsulated salicylic
are chemically and functionally similar to their AHA acid, are ideal for helping to treat skin without any harmful
counterparts (glycolic acid and lactic acid, respectively), side effects. However, the use of acids in skincare is well
but given their larger molecular structure, they are not documented, and even high levels can be safe and beneficial
able to deeply penetrate the skin and cause the same level to the skin if understood in terms of ther indications and
of damage while reaping similar benefits. Gluconolactate interactions, and applied correctly. AM

>> Eavanna Breen has been an aesthetic therapist since 1991. She has worked alongside cosmetic surgeons,
doctors and naturopaths and specialises in diathermy, advanced skin care and laser treatment. She
opened the first Akina Beauty Salon in Dublin in 2006. Eavanna also works with clinical skincare brand
AlumierMD.

42 Aesthetic Medicine • June 2020